Acid cleaning involves the chemical stripping of corroded layers from the surface of the metal. For this procedure, we generally use diluted acids or alkaline solutions. For classic cars in particular, rust removal has a significant effect on the longevity and bonding of the chrome surface.

This is the first step, since electrolytic treatments are not possible for components which are painted or show remaining traces of paint. Paint removal is the chemical dissolution of non-metallic surface coatings.

Nickel or chrome removal is the second step. Old layers of chrome or nickel are removed using an electrolytic or other chemical process. We always choose the process which is the least damaging to the base material. It is important to remove not only the layer of chrome, but any nickel as well, since a surface coat applied directly to nickel may not last as long as other coatings.

Nickel or chrome removal is the second step. Old layers of chrome or nickel are removed using an electrolytic or other chemical process. We always choose the process which is the least damaging to the base material. It is important to remove not only the layer of chrome, but any nickel as well, since a surface coat applied directly to nickel may not last as long as other coatings.

Sanding is the first mechanical treatment. It smoothes rough surfaces. Sanding is a metal-abrading procedure. Depending on the size, hardness and bond of the abrasive, foreign material will progressively be stripped away. This procedure will also correct flaws in the surface. Sanding requires great experience and skill, especially when it comes to classic car components.

Polishing removes any scratches or other irregularities caused by sanding. This step can begin only when all grinding and copper plating procedures have been completed.

Glass bead blasting is significantly finer than sandblasting and is therefore much more suitable when a high-gloss finish is wanted. Often, glass bead blasting is used selectively, e.g. to remove areas of rust or trace remnants of paint.

Along with acidic-copper plating, cyanide-copper plating has many advantages despite its toxicity. Cyanide-copper coatings both cover and bond extremely well. Because it is a costly and complicated procedure, copper plating is often skipped. However, copper plating is indispensible for classic cars and is standard procedure at our company. Acidic-copper plating allows the formation of a thicker layer of copper. This layer can be sanded and polished without weakening the base material.

Nickel plating helps protect against rust and adds to the shine of a surface. This procedure demands exacting work because an imperfection in the nickel layer cannot be corrected without detracting from your car's appearance. Any flaw in the chrome surface of a classic car is an eyesore and is therefore to be avoided at all cost.

This is the final step. It comes after nickel plating and is always applied in extremely thin coats. Chrome coatings applied electrolytically shine like silver and are quite hard. When exposed to aerial oxygen, these coatings quickly become inert without losing their metallic appearance. They are very smooth, tend not to stick and are scratch-resistant.

Electrosilvered coatings are used both decoratively and functionally. For example, headlight reflectors should always be plated with silver and not with nickel, since nickel has significantly lower reflective power compared to silver.

When used for decorative purposes, a layer of gold can give an object the look of solid gold. Some classic cars have gold-plated as well as silver-plated decorative components, e.g. the Horch hood ornament or the lettering on a Porsche.

Of course, you can have your classic car parts delivered to us. We will do the required work and return them to you by UPS or a reliable courier firm.